Chicatanas: Mexico’s Fleeting Culinary Treasure

In Mexico, particularly in Oaxaca, chicatanas are a highly prized seasonal delicacy. These flying leaf-cutter ants emerge for just a day or two after the first heavy rains in early to mid-June, marking the start of the wet season.

Harvesting chicatanas is a community event, with families rushing out to collect these insects as they flee their flooded nests. Some use plastic bags to catch them mid-air, while others gather them by hand, carefully avoiding their painful bite. Once collected, the ants are toasted on a comal, a traditional flat ceramic griddle, to remove their wings and prepare them for consumption or sale.

Chicatanas are prized for their rich, savory flavor profile, described as a mix of hazelnut, peanut, earth, and pork lard. They add a unique umami taste and crunchy texture to various dishes. The most popular preparation is salsa de chicatanas, where the toasted ants are ground with chili peppers, garlic, and salt. This versatile salsa can be used on eggs, in quesadillas, or stirred into soups.

The rarity of chicatanas, due to their brief availability, makes them a valuable commodity. Their harvest and consumption are deeply rooted in pre-Hispanic traditions, representing both a cultural touchstone and a seasonal treat for many Oaxacans.

In recent years, chicatanas have gained attention in high-end culinary circles. Renowned chefs incorporate them into sophisticated dishes, such as mole sauces or as a component in upscale mayonnaise. This growing popularity, combined with their limited availability, has increased their economic value in local markets.

Chicatanas exemplify the rich culinary heritage of Mexico, showcasing the country’s longstanding tradition of entomophagy and its ability to transform a fleeting natural phenomenon into a celebrated gastronomic experience.